This blog is intended to give a/us a simple record of our trip b/some useful tips and findings.
Some facts: We used the Lonely Planet guide to Morrocco, which we found to be useful and informative and we would generally agree with most of the info contained within although it was published in 2007 and so we found some of the quoted prices out by a variable margin and as much as 50%.
We arrived in Rabat Sale Airport (tiny, close to city centre) and took a taxi to the Riad which they arranged for us: The Repose Riad, in Sale Medina. Sale is across the Bou Regreg river from Rabat and is quieter and smaller (http://readingmorocco.blogspot.com/2010/01/bou-regreg-river-of-rabat-pirates.html). We found that Sale (the Medina) had a bit of a reputation elsewhere in Morocco for being not very safe (pickpockets and the like) but we did not find it to be the case, as the Riad owners corroborated. It was friendly and quite charming with non-touristy souqs - for food and essentials, thronged by ordinary Morroccans. Although we didn't wander around late at night - about 7.30 was the latest, it didn't feel threatening in the slightest. This reputation might be a hangover from the past and the Sale Pirates of yore (the Corsairs)... See http://riadzany.blogspot.com/2010/09/postcard-from-sale.html
The Rabat Souq on the edge of the Rabat Medina, we found to be a lovely and relaxed street to wander down; English spoken quite a bit and not the haggling and bargaining found in other places e.g. Marrakech. We bought a rug and some pottery here on our return 11-12 October and didn't try to bargain the prices down as they were a fraction of what we had been quoted in Marrakech and just such a lovely buying experience in comparison. It's actually called the Carpet Souq I think as there are other souqs further into the Medina, but pottery, wood and metalwork was on offer too.
The Riad owners, Jan (English) and Rachid (Morroccan), were utterly charming and well-organised and advised us on a lot of things. The best mint tea here too (the mint tea comprises green tea and fresh mint and I found that a lot of places up the green tea quota which I personally don't like as much).
We hired a car in Rabat from Avis. As it closed during mid-day, we had to make a return visit only to find the shop still closed - the guy was 'round the corner' apparently but didn't appear for about an hour... Oh well. Best to make a phone-call first to set an appointment time as we just turned up and booked a car on the spot. Cost the same as the internet rate we'd researched back in UK. We chose Avis as they have an office in Essaouira where we were headed and would drop off car. Again, call to make sure there's someone in the office and they can give you directions as the Avis address given us didn't correspond to actual location :(
The Kasbah in Rabat is very atmospheric - one of our first encounters with an unofficial guide looking to make a quick buck. Someone asked us the time, in French. When he established we were English he chatted informally and then said, 'Come over here, you must look at the view from this side'. We walked with him assuming we were all headed in same direction anyway... Once we got to the Kasbah he offered to take a picture of us. I was flagging as we'd walked everywhere that day (twice to the Avis office!) and said we would part ways so he said we could pay him now. We did give him a small amount but made the mistake of showing other cash so he inflated his demand. We demurred... Keep change/small denominations in other pockets/wallets. Just be on your guard and be firm against intrusions - unofficial guides, henna artists, etc. Or welcome it, just agree a price first.
No comments:
Post a Comment